19th April 2010

Here’s a summary of our Asian adventure, so far…

We began with a four-hour delay at Heathrow (thank you, Virgin), but once we were airborne, things ran smoothly. Our transfer from Shanghai airport to the Crowne Plaza in Pudong was efficient by taxi. Our hotel was technically near the airport, though it still took 40 minutes. The roads work, but driving on them feels like you’re in a Grand Prix; our driver was seemingly aiming to qualify for pole position, with us clinging to our seatbelts in silent prayer.

The next day’s transfer by taxi to the cruise ship was equally well-organised, and the cruise itself, taking in Japan and South Korea, was simply excellent. The food, entertainment, and shore tours all exceeded expectations. If you ever get the chance to cruise this region, take it. Unfortunately, I didn’t have Wifi on board the ship or take my laptop, so daily updates to the blog didn’t happen. However, a video of our adventures was made and can be viewed here: JAPAN CRUISE

Japan turned out to be even more delightful than we’d imagined. The entire country appears to run on clockwork, clean, picturesque, disciplined, and not a crisp packet in sight. We didn’t see a single scruffy soul; the national dress code appears to require Armani or perhaps a bit of Gucci, even for a trip to the corner shop.

Their manners are impeccable, if slightly overwhelming. Politeness is taken to such extremes that I occasionally wasn’t sure if I’d just been helped or gently reprimanded. Even the plants are well-behaved, manicured shrubs, blossoming trees and public spaces straight out of a chocolate box illustration.

Shopping there is more performance art than retail. Food and goods are arranged with such pristine care that picking something up feels like a minor act of vandalism.

South Korea came close to Japan in many respects, but not quite. For a start, there’s actual litter. And the schoolchildren make British ones look like Trappist monks, noisy and wildly energetic. That said, it’s clear the country has achieved an impressive economic transformation through grit, innovation, and sheer hard work. You can’t help but admire their progress.

Shanghai, on the other hand, is a different beast entirely. It’s vast, it’s polluted, and it never, ever sleeps. Technology is everywhere, electric taxis, light displays, and enough gadgets to make Harborough’s High Street look medieval.

After disembarkation at the Port of Shanghai, we returned to the Crowne Plaza for another night before flying home. Or at least, that was the plan. Enter one very moody Icelandic volcano with an unpronounceable name, and all flights to Europe were grounded. Just like that, we went from “home tomorrow” to “hello, unexpected Shanghai mini-break.”

Our scheduled flight home, like all other flights, was cancelled. We were not flying home today, tomorrow, or, it seemed, ever. Nor is anyone else.

Virgin and our booking agent, Cruise1st, have been about as helpful as a chocolate teapot. So we’ve had to go rogue. With the Crowne Plaza charging 1,200 RMB a night, we checked out and crossed the road to the Ibis Pudong: 268 RMB (after heavy negotiation) with breakfast and free WiFi. I may not be sleeping in a robe anymore, but I’ll sleep with my wallet intact.

Before moving hotels, we bravely ventured to the airport (despite Virgin’s advice not to) to find it eerily empty, like a scene from 28 Days Later. At the Virgin desk, a visibly jittery staff member eventually cracked and gave us directions to the airline’s office. After much reassurance that we weren’t there to throw chairs or demand pitchforks, we were told the first available flight out might be on 5th May. That’s 16 days to kill, assuming no further ash-cloud tantrums. I politely insisted that our names be placed on that flight, and we left on good terms.

Later, after packing, as we left the Crowne Plaza, we were trailed by other guests desperate for escape tips. I explained my thinking: if Virgin don’t cough up for accommodation, I’d rather be hit by a smaller bill. Not surprisingly,  we later discovered a procession of Crowne guests wheeling their bags into the Ibis. Word travels fast when bills hit wallets.

Back in the UK, Charlotte has been a star, keeping Sarah and Jamie updated and texting us with news daily. We’ve now accepted our fate and slipped into accidental holiday mode. We’ll do some sightseeing (even if Chinese food isn’t top of my culinary wishlist), and make the best of our enforced stay.

In the hotel bar, I met an Emirates captain who said, “What better place to be stranded than Shanghai?” I replied, “Try the Maldives.” Still, he had a point.